Started working on shorting the nose of the Gen V supercharger .
I turned down a new shaft that is about 4” shorter then the original
Pressed on the bearing. The knurling on the shaft holds the drive flange
Drive flange pressed on.
I cut down the housing on the mill and machined the new bearing pocket.
Finished machining the parts.
Test fitting the shortened supercharger.
Compared to the original length.
Time to start on the jack shaft and pulleys.
Tags: jackshaft, L67, machined, modified, reversed, supercharger
Today I machined out the housing for the relocation shifter. It was machined out of a piece of 2 1/2” x 3 1/2” 6061.
It will be welded to the housing once everything is fitted properly. The shaft will be cut once I have it set up and dowel pins will be used along with the set screws.
showing the new leveled housing.
Showing the completed coupling with the shaft cut out to allow the shifter ball to fit into the socket.
Finished the housing and welded it into place and installed the shifter.
I am in the process of modifying the tail housing of my T5 Transmission to allow the shifter to be located in the TR6 factory location.
I am making a coupling and housing that will allow any standard factory or aftermarket shifter to be used.
I first have to cut out part of the shifter selector shaft tunnel.
Test fitting the shaft.
I am designing the coupling so that it will drive the original shifter selector so I will not need to modify with the selector gate.
The Camaro T5 transmission is tilted 18 degrees and I want the new shifter to sit level.
I will post more later…
Started work on turning the supercharger 180 degrees today. The idea for turning the supercharger around is so that the throttle body is facing the front of the car and allowing for a more practical placement of the air cleaner. It will also allow the heater hose and thermostat to be on the front of the engine.
The lower intake manifold is also flipped so I will need to make a couple modifications to make it fit. I first needed to modify the lower intake manifold so that it would clear the water pump. The area was milled open was filled with 1/4” aluminum plate.
You can see the welded plate just above the water pump
This is the rear of the motor showing the gears for the Gen V supercharger. The motor originally came with a gen 3 supercharger but in order to turn the supercharger around I would need to change the direction of the rotors. Unlike the Gen 3 the Gen V supercharger bolt pattern is symmetrical and I was able to flip the rotors over and thus moving the drive pins over from the right to the left hand side. I will be making a jack shaft to connect to the front of the engine.
This is the snout flipped over the the left hand side. I will be shortening it so that it does not stick out so far.
This is the shaft from inside the supercharger snout that will also need to be shortened
I just made some ILF limb adapter plates for a friend of mine.
Small update this week as I have very busy and was not able to get much done on the six.
I decided to make up some heaver frame tabs for the engine mounts out of some 1/4” flat bar to replace the 3/16” tabs that I picked up with the rubber bushings.
After first mocking up the design on a piece of cardboard I transferred it to the 1/4” plate and drilled the 1/2” hole
I then cut the pattern out with the band saw a cleaned it up with the belt sander.
The tabs are welded to the top of the frame, I will weld the vertical welds once I remove the motor.
Tags: L67 engine mount
Started work on making the transmission mount. I want the mount to be removable so I made up a couple brackets that are welded flush with the frame.
The bracket started with a piece of 3/8” x 2 1/2” flat bar. The bracket is just tacked together for now and I am planning on adding some gussets. I want to leave room for the exhaust pipes to run down beside the frame rails.
I also added a 3” x 3” tube that connects the outer frame rail to the transmission bracket location. This should help with stiffing up the frame a bit
. I put the fame on a scale today and it weighs in at 260 pounds.
Tags: TR6 Frame, transmission mount
I made some scratch built motor mounts today.I started with a piece of 1/4” x 3” flat bar for the motor plates and some 1-3/8” x .120 wall tubing with a couple rubber bushings.
Using a piece of cardboard to design the legs.
For the leg piece I started with some 2” x 2” 3/16” wall square tubing and cut it on the band saw. I also made a hole for access to the lower bolt on the motor plate.
All tig welded up and the mounting tabs being mocked up.
Passenger side motor mount.
Tags: custom, L67, motor mount
It has been a while since updating the site but I have taken a major step sideways with the Arrow head project. I decided not to try fixing up the old TR6 frame but instead build a completely new frame from scratch. Most of the frame is made from 3/16” x 3” x 3” square tubing. It will be heaver then the old frame but should not have any problems handling the new power plant.
I am still mocking up the frame. The small piece of tube in the center of the frame is also temporary and will be replaced.
Showing the coil over shocks and R200 diff mount. The 1” x 2” bar on the back of the R200 diff is just for mock up. I am using some CV shafts from Good parts
I am trying to keep the diff a low as possible. I bent a couple pieces of 3” x 3” tubing for the uprights so that they follow the angle of the frame and diff mount.
I made up adjusters for the coil over upper mounts, the top parts of the adjusters will be supported when I install the body mount.
I am have just started working on the front suspension. The front will also have coil over shocks and the towers will be trimmed a bit
I am designing some low profile side marker lights to replace the stock Lucas lamps. I wanted the design to cover the factory holes in the front fender while still following the spirit of the original lamps and have the side angle match the wheel arch opening. Starting with some DOT approved standard LED side markers I cut the lens down to fit the bezel I machined out of a piece of 1/4” X 3” 6010 aluminum.
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The box will fit on the backside of the fender.
LED’s turned on.
I still need to make the piece that fits on the back of the bezel that will sandwich the lens and hold it to the fender.
Test fitting the lamps on my unpainted front fender
The original Lucas side mark lamp.
