Flipping the new Gen V Supercharger

Started work on turning the supercharger 180 degrees today. The idea for turning the supercharger around is so that the throttle body is facing the front of the car and allowing for a more practical placement of the air cleaner. It will also allow the heater hose and thermostat to be on the front of the engine.

The lower intake manifold is also flipped so I will need to make a couple modifications to make it fit. I first needed to modify the lower intake manifold so that it would clear the water pump. The area was milled open was filled with 1/4” aluminum plate.

ILM-mod-1

You can see the welded plate just above the water pump

Engine-front

This is the rear of the motor showing the gears for the Gen V supercharger. The motor originally came with a gen 3 supercharger but in order to turn the supercharger around I would need to change the direction of the rotors. Unlike the Gen 3 the Gen V supercharger bolt pattern is symmetrical and I was able to flip the rotors over and thus moving the drive pins over from the right to the left hand side. I will be making a jack shaft to connect to the front of the engine.

By |October 27th, 2011|Power Train, Supercharger|0 Comments
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Archery Bow Riser adapter Plates

I just made some ILF limb adapter plates for a friend of mine.

ILF-Bear-plates

By |September 2nd, 2011|Other Stuff|0 Comments
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Engine mount frame tabs

Small update this week as I have very busy and was not able to get much done on the six.

I decided to make up some heaver frame tabs for the engine mounts out of some 1/4” flat bar to replace the 3/16” tabs that I picked up with the rubber bushings.

After first mocking up the design on a piece of cardboard I transferred it to the 1/4” plate and drilled the 1/2” hole

I then cut the pattern out with the band saw a cleaned it up with the belt sander.

The tabs are welded to the top of the frame, I will weld the vertical welds once I remove the motor.

By |July 1st, 2011|New Frame|0 Comments
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Transmission Mount

Started work on making the transmission mount. I want the mount to be removable so I made up a couple brackets that are welded flush with the frame.

 

 

 

 

The bracket started with a piece of 3/8” x 2 1/2” flat bar. The bracket is just tacked together for now and I am planning on adding some gussets. I want to leave room for the exhaust pipes to run down beside the frame rails.

I also added a 3” x 3” tube that connects the outer frame rail to the transmission bracket location. This should help with stiffing up the frame a bit

. I put the fame on a scale today and it weighs in at 260 pounds.

By |June 23rd, 2011|New Frame|0 Comments
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Motor Mounts

I made some scratch built motor mounts today.I started with a piece of 1/4” x 3” flat bar for the motor plates and some 1-3/8” x .120 wall tubing with a couple rubber bushings.

Using a piece of cardboard to design the legs.

For the leg piece I started with some 2” x 2” 3/16” wall square tubing and cut it on the band saw. I also made a hole for access to the lower bolt on the motor plate.

All tig welded up and the mounting tabs being mocked up.

Passenger side motor mount.

By |June 18th, 2011|Frame|0 Comments
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New Frame

It has been a while since updating the site but I have taken a major step sideways with the Arrow head project. I decided not to try fixing up the old TR6 frame but instead build a completely new frame from scratch. Most of the frame is made from 3/16” x 3” x 3” square tubing. It will be heaver then the old frame but should not have any problems handling the new power plant.

I am still mocking up the frame. The small  piece of tube in the center of the frame is also temporary and will be replaced.

tr6 new frame 1

Showing the coil over shocks and R200 diff mount. The 1” x 2” bar on the back of the R200 diff is just for mock up. I am using some CV shafts from Good parts

tr6 new frame 2

I am trying to keep the diff a low as possible. I bent a couple pieces of  3” x 3” tubing for the uprights so that they follow the angle of the frame and diff mount.

tr6 new frame 3

By |June 10th, 2011|Frame|0 Comments
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Custom Side Marker Lamps

I am designing  some low profile side marker lights to replace the stock Lucas lamps. I wanted the design to cover the factory holes in the front fender while still following the spirit of the original lamps and have the side angle match the wheel arch opening. Starting with some DOT approved standard LED side markers I cut the lens down to fit the bezel I machined out of a piece of 1/4” X 3” 6010 aluminum.

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The box will fit on the backside of the fender.

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LED’s turned on.

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I still need to make the piece that fits on the back of the bezel that will sandwich the lens and hold it to the fender.

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Test fitting the lamps on my unpainted front fender

By |December 10th, 2010|Electrical|0 Comments
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Header Tubes

I started on the tubes for the headers using six pieces of mandrel bent 1 1/2” mild steel tubing. The drivers side has to clear the starter so that it can be removed without having to disturb the headers. I used a piece of sheet metal at the bottom of the frame rails as a base to aid in the layout.

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The tubes also have to keep away from the frame and the firewall that is marked with the blue paint.

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Drivers side mocked up I will weld the tubes to the header flange once I have the collector tube made up. I will make the motor mounts once the headers are completed.

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Pieces of pipe insulation is used to hold the tubing on place for mock up.

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By |October 30th, 2010|Exhaust|0 Comments
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Header Flanges

I picked up a new toy a few weeks ago and I finally have it up and running. Smile 

This is my first real CNC machine and I have managed to figure out how to work most of the controls but there is still much I need to learn. It is a Fadal VMC3016 CNC mill with a fourth axis and 10,00 rpm spindle, it is in great shape for its age. IMG_1727IMG_1729

The first thing I decided to make were a couple of  header flanges for the custom exhaust. I removed the exhaust tubes off the factory exhaust flange so that I could get the exact measurements I needed for the holes.  I then drew up the part and made up the necessary code for the Fadal CNC.

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I used a piece of 2 1/2” x 3/8” flat bar for the flange and placed one piece below to protect the table just in case I made a mistake.

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By |October 23rd, 2010|Exhaust|0 Comments
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Motor Mock Up

Now that the major repairs of the outriggers are completed I placed the body on the frame so that I can test fit the motor and transmission. My goal is the get the motor as far back and low as reasonably possible. I first cut about an inch off the bottom of the oil pan to get the motor as possible and not sit below the frame rails, I also trimmed a bit of the firewall so that I an able to slide the motor back. I might do a bit more trimming so that I can get it back another inch or so.

The Motor is a 1998 Pontiac series II L67 90 degree V6 with the Eaton Generation III M90 Supercharger that produces around 240 hp (180 kW) and 280 lb·ft (380 N·m) of torque stock. The L67 90 degree V6 is a little wider the the Chevrolet 60 degree V6 L32 but produces about 80 more horse power and torque  but with a little work can reach over 300 hp. 

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The front cross member will need to be modified to clear the oil filter.

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One of the big challenges is that […]

By |October 16th, 2010|Power Train|0 Comments
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